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In a pinch, chamois *can* be used, though it tends to be too "stretchy" and it is thus harder to trim the valves apart neatly. The closest modern equivalent I have found to the paper/cloth hinge material is "bookbinder's tape", available at artist supply houses. I recommend reading this treatise through before you start, and of course you can refer to it at any time. "Front, lower, bass"; "rear, upper, treble", for example - whatever works for you. Replace the felt strips, using hot glue, of course. This is not always easy, especially if the organ is fitted with the usual bass and treble couplers. If you have done your work well, it is likely to take several minutes for the reservoir to open up. Whatever you use, be sure joints between pieces of material are almost invisible: an amazing amount of wind can leak through a tiny imperfection in this gasket! Punchings on the coupler buttons should be replaced: many are likely to be missing. There is no practical way to recover exhausters if the foundation remains attached! Do them all, then turn the assembly over on a strip of wood to press all the bearings "home". The pump organ is a type of free-reed organ that generates sound as air flows past a vibrating piece of thin metal in a frame. The sixth - and most common - deadly sin is that of "munging" the heads. All this accomplished, you can return the lower action to the case, and prepare to work on the upper action, to be treated in subsequent sections of this narrative. These are the toughest to do and make work right. Specific types of pump organ include the reed organ, harmonium, and melodeon. So long as this condition is met, the valves will do their job. MARKINGS: Dates, signatures, job numbers, tuners' information and other items of interest that have been placed on various keys, usually in pencil. The shank is a smooth portion between the head and the part where the threads begin. Read part 4 before moving on! The more common situation, however, is that there is a buildup of dark material along the sides and tips of the tongues (Category 2). The company's filing status is listed as Active and its File Number is 802074. Hot (bearable to touch) water is desired here, and it should be changed often - every dozen reeds or so, or whenever you can *see* gunk in the first rinse water. You need to WRITE DOWN the maximum opening of the reservoir, and of the exhausters. Stubborn stains on ivory can be sanded out with 600-grit paper and great care! FRONT RAIL: The wooden piece of the key frame which carries the front pins and the thumper felt. With the action out of the case, you are presented with the foundation, a wide board with a slit or some holes along the back, and perhaps a divider in the middle. Next, remove the stickers, a neat row of which you see protruding up through the swell action. to the plastic lid covering the keyboard and parts of the logo are missing from the top of the organ. Details of how it's held in vary, but by now you should be adept at finding screws in odd places! This material is somewhat greasy and should be removed. Some reservoirs have external springs: remove these, taking care to mark them so you can get them back exactly as they were. Each piece is 1/2-inch long by a width equal to that of the bearing, "plus a little": this is really not all that critical, and these parts can be quickly cut out using a razor-blade in a handle. Cleaning the wood of the keys is not just a "cosmetic" step: it serves to make the completed keyboard look. Mason & Hamlin (and some others) used round-head screws with a "domed" head higher than most others; these are not available today at all, so it is important to retain them. The "fuzzy" side always faces the cells. However, pyralin is EXTREMELY flammable (chemically, it is the same as nitrocellulose film base, which caused many a nasty theater fire until safety film was developed). Instead, heat the hinge with a small torch, or even over the stove. Put the action flat, exhausters down, on a work table. Next, with the action flat on a bench, begin pulling reeds. It cannot be stressed enough here that the reeds, being the heart and soul of a reed organ, must be handled with great care. The ribs may be single piece, with a fold in their middles, or they may be separate pieces hinged together with a piece of leather. The Conklin Reed Organ Museum proudly displays 99 restored and working antique reed organs in the former school's gymnasium. The fourth deadly sin - very common, alas! This is usually a "line" of glue about an eighth of an inch wide; the old glue will usually show well enough that you can follow it as a guide. Clean the face with care on the belt sander, or use the hot water technique, using just enough to do the job; allow the cleaned mutes to dry *thoroughly*. You want next to take out the "upper action" in its entirety. When all is ready (it takes longer to tell how to do it than to actually *do* it! Volume XXXIII, No. New reed bed felt is installed. You will be cleaning up the key-board next, a matter with which I will treat in part 13. These are part of the original fabric of the instrument, and should be preserved and re-used. Buffing on a wire-wheel is advised, especially if they are rusty. The task of cutting all those strips of felt and leather may seem daunting, but on most production instruments it was done in a really simple way. The origin of the Farrand & Votey Organ Company dates back to 1881 when the employee owned Detroit Reed Organ Company was dissolved. Next, apply glue to the end of the exhauster cover, and pull the cloth up into position, leaving the ends to "flop around": the correct position of the cloth allows space for the rib to lie flat on the inside when the exhauster is closed. Heating destroys enough wood fibers to release the screw, leaving a hole that will still receive the same size screw successfully. Have handy a block of wood and a small weight, and put the wood on top of the valve, the weight on top of that. Even then, it is not a bad idea to keep the keys in order when you set them aside: there's really no reason not to. Using your measurements and the old piece to guide you, make another pencil line the full length of the piece. Rip this felt out, and remove all traces of it with sparing applications of hot water, being careful not to let the water soak into the reed cells. COUPLER BUTTON: A wooden button attached beneath the key which transfers motion to the coupler wire. Get this matter settled first. But if you need a *row* of tacks, you're doing something wrong! Work this joint down well, and apply any wood strips that may have been over the cloth. Avoid the fleeceback, heavier stuff, and the drill-cloth stuff as well. But cleaning, touch-up with a dark stain on severe scratches, and re-waxing (paste wax) is usually all that's required. Be sure to count and re-count. The instruments are privately owned, in churches, or in historical society collections. In addition to the foot treadles with 2 bellows, it has a crankshaft with 3 bellows having a large side hand crank. You want to get down to clean wood *everywhere*! To do the above properly, it is necessary to remove the hinges from the mute. Add Organ. Small amounts of glue are needed here - resist the temptation to overdo it. Such instruments include the harmonium and … Leave the excess on the movable part for later. He was born on a farm near Dundee, Michigan in 1855, and died in 1939. [Which end of the screwdriver do I use?] Worse yet, some fail to pilot at all! View All View Extant. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". This has to be glued tightly in place, as the pressure of atmosphere will tend to push it away from the crack, but the technique works and the minor unsightliness remains inside where it won't often be seen. There may be a guide strip to be cleaned up first. Measure the length of a typical member of each group, and note by number how many valves have that length, and jot down a little table, which might look something like this: Notes Length, inches (cm, micropalmas, or whatever) 1-13 3.25 14-25 2.875 26-40 2.5 41-61 2.25. When the glue has set and these valves are sliced apart, you will have the job half done. When it is clear that the material you wish to remove is gone, dip the reed in the first pot of rinse-water, swish it around, remove it and shake off excess water. With all these chores behind you, re-facing the valves (if necessary) is the next step, to be. Thirty-five years ago, the Reed Organ Society officially added "Inc." to its name and was legally incorporated in New York State as a non-profit, educational, cultural organization. Usually, cleaning is all that's necessary. It will open into a very wide "Y", and if it gets away from you it can do major damage. To make new card-board ribs, use the old ones as templates. This edge of the mute that has the small excess flap of leather is tricky to trim and get right. It goes without saying that the gasket is held in place by a *light* application of modified horse hooves (hot glue). It was first made in France by Alexandre Debain in 1840, who patented his Harmonium in Paris on August 9, 1840. Playing and restoring reed organs is a hobby of mine, bringing them back to their … KEYSLIP: The portion of the casework which covers the action below the keyboard. STICKER: The round bit of dowel attached under each key which transfers motion of the key to the valve inside the reed pan. These are often seen as daunting tasks, and at first glance it may seem to be difficult. Most RO actions are built up from the bottom, so one works from the top down. Heavy canvas or twill hinges need a *lot* of glue - work it into the fabric so it joins the coating of glue laid on the wood first. Once again, cabretta is excellent for mute leather. The reeds show no serious corrosion or severe discoloration, there being only some loose dirt on them. With the casework out of the way, you'll find some sort of linkages (wooden sticks, wires, or straps) that ultimately connect the stop-knobs to the mutes: these parts are usually at the extreme end of the action, (they may, however be arranged along the back of the stop action) and are made to be disconnected fairly easily. While shipping is free in the US via donation because of the availability of Media Mail rates, ROS is not able to furnish free shipping outside the US. With all this completed and the parts set aside, you want to tackle the lower action. You will also need a small shallow tray of plastic (I use the foam trays meat comes packed in: it is also a throw-away item), and two containers for rinse water (I use cottage-cheese containers). (Again, Mason & Hamlin in particular used this technique.) (See Note 3). If the blade is held in pair of vice-grips, it's even easier (and safer). Built with concrete5 CMS. Hairline cracks, or ones which have a lot of curves, can be filled. The clean, dry, re-felted frame should be re-attached to the action at this point. In very bad cases, you may have to re-bush the entire keyboard. KEY BED: Also, KEY FRAME. As with the rest of the instrument's various bits and pieces, the first step is to assure that the keys are numbered in order. Toggle navigation. All too often this point is overlooked by builders and repairers alike. The Registered Agent on file for this company is Reed Organ Society, Inc. and is located at Charles Robinson, Treasurer Po Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047. Most of the dirt on a suction reed will be on the upper surface, however. Bear in mind that the felt you are replacing is likely a hundred years old, and that you expect your replacement to last just as long! Ah, yes! Glue them on with a heavy application of hot glue. You'll need a collection of brushes. The best approach is to apply a steady torque with a screw-driver while tapping on the handle with a light hammer. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. In my book, the same goes for reed organs. Large dollops of verdigris resulting from droplets of mouse urine may require a touch with a *dry* pencil-eraser, but a very slight discoloration left behind will do no harm, and it is best to go as easily as you can, especially on the tongues themselves. That formative is important. It may be a while before you put these back, so it is important to mark them unequivocally. It should be obvious that the leather is applied to the felt using the same technique, the only difference being that it was usually held with "dots" of glue, rather than a strip of it. Cut strips of leather which are slightly too long and slightly too wide. Let this joint set up well. Welcome to the Reed Organ Society - preserving reed organs, pump organs, harmoniums and many other free reed … These often need to be re-hinged after a thorough cleaning. Re-install the completed action into the organ, and go have a nice cuppa (or a glass of beer), and congratulate yourself on a job well done! Immerse a dozen reeds or so in this mixture, and allow it to percolate for a few minutes. Trim the excess leather from the dry mutes by placing each one on a smooth surface and trimming with a razor-blade, using the wood as a guide. The Hammond Organ Reed Factory is a historic former factory building at 9 May Street in Worcester, Massachusetts. But, it has the sound of the days of Little House on the Prairie. Applying too much glue in these steps is the most common pitfall: it results in leather bunching up, and poor seating of the completed valve. Apply a small bit of fairly thin glue and let it dry: then a bit more glue and the dot. 60” tall67” wide62” deep which includes the pedal board.Bench included Golden OakIt’s heavy probably over t200lbs. It can be done, but be sure to know the "do's and don'ts" of restoring. Replace *especially* if it is made of felt, for felt really does not make good gaskets, despite its having been frequently used for them. Work the joints down carefully, and apply the strip of wood over the joint (if there was one). The soundboard was usually shellacked, and the cleaning treatment may leave it a bit dingy. When all is well, pin the excess cloth out of the way and work the joint down with the stick as before. It is a practical guide for craftsmen with instructions for making new reed organs and chapters included on tuning and voicing. Envelopes, dishes, ice-cube trays, cat-food cans, baby-food bottles -- all are just fine for collecting the myriad screws you will be removing. Fortunately, painted sharps aren't that common, and the paint is often not original - someone did a touch-up job along the way. It must be smooth! Translation Find a translation for Reed Organ Society in other languages: This rib-less design is the third style, and it really does not work well: I usually *add* inside ribs to this design. As usual, take off squeezed-out glue with a damp rag. Once you have this, the rest of the material can be taken off willy-nilly. Then apply ample glue to both wood parts, and pull the cloth back into position in such a way that it contacts the glue where it will actually lie, avoiding contact elsewhere. They can be numbered with an "electric pencil" on the under-side of each paddle. Blocks of bees-wax can be obtained at any hardware store, and seemingly last forever; usually they are lost long before they are used up. Old screws were manufactured using a machining process; their threads are sharply cut, and the edges of flat-heads are also sharp and well-defined. If you can successfully remove these without destroying them, label them for re-use: otherwise, make new ones to match the old. You *should* use hot glue, but liquid hide glue also works here. You may have to do a good bit of looking to find something that works. The glue is not set, and is a good lubricant, so it's easy to make this mistake! So, drag the poor thing into the garage, assemble some tools, and fix up a workbench A disassembled reed organ takes up a good deal of space: have an area set aside where the components can be stored without being bothered by pets or children. Still, they are surprisingly robust, in that they suffer the indignities of dirt and corrosion for years, but go right on speaking. International Reed Organ Society. Para todos os significados de ROS, clique em "More". Builders. You will see the ends of the bearings bent over and crimped into the wood. Affix this to each *end* of the reservoir; a scrap of wood nailed with a *small* nail, and resting on the divider, is sufficient. Next, clean up the bed and re-hinge it if necessary (it usually is! Warm water softens this easily, so the old material comes right off. End-grain, even in hardwood, does not grip the threads of a screw the way cross-grain does: it is the multitudinous fibers of the wood intersecting the threads at a steep angle that permit the screw to work. Note: An earlier version of this article appeared in the Quarterly of the Reed Organ Society, with particular reference to reed organs, and enumerating the seven deadly sins of screwing by James B. Tyler, Recognized Expert on Screwing. The *width* of the reservoir cover is determined by the maximum opening of it, *plus* the material glued to the divider, *plus* any material that is folded over on to the face of the reservoir (Mason & Hamlin, usually), *PLUS* some "trim" - at least half an inch. Any *new* surface (not previously glued) to be joined using hot glue must be sized, which simply means painting the area with a dilute hot glue (make up a trifling amount by diluting your regular mix 1 to1 with hot water: when you are through with it put it back into your glue pot). The piece of metal is called a reed. Next, you need to observe carefully exactly how the material is applied, especially how it is "closed" at the hinge end. Your completed valves are returned to their original positions using the numbers as a guide, to be held in place by the same spring that did so originally. Pipe Organ Database. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. You will, of course, replace the hinge if there is *any* doubt about its remaining longevity. The latter, in convenient woven strips 2" wide, can be had at any place that makes awnings and such. Mark each mute unobtrusively with letters to indicate its position, and set all these aside for now. c/o Reed Organ Society PO Box 47 Independence, MO 64051-0047 Phone: 816-461-7300 Email: chuck99er(at)yahoo.com. Commence by laying all the valves on a flat surface with the facings up, and the valve butts aligned. Articles and advertisements are invited at any time; to include material in a specific issue, publication deadlines are at the beginning of each calendar quarter: There is an index to these issues. essential. CRUD: The stuff that falls through the cracks in a keyboard and lands on the parts below. The keys are another sub-assembly: the key-cheeks may be attached to the key bed (or may have been screwed to the case). "Material": where to get that, and what will I need? These are sometimes erroneously called "pitmans". As the pressure developed to make ROs cheaper, the style evolved that used a single piece of rubber cloth, often with ribs inside. Similarly, resist the temptation to use neoprene foam. Besides ease of use, it is fully water soluble, so the next person to work on the organ can have an easy time of it, just as you will, assuming no clod got into your instrument before you and used the wrong stuff. For now, prop the mute open with a small chunk of something. Note: Some actions can be removed from the case with the stop rail attached; others require the stop rail to be removed first (usually so you can reach some of the screws holding the action in place). It is now time to turn our attention to the keyboard, one of the most important elements in a good reed organ repair.
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